DANELINKS.COM                                                                                                                                        7.1.05 

Balance in Great Danes
By Nikki Riggsbee

When I am studying a new breed, I ask my mentors what are the most important characteristics that a dog of their breed must have to be a “good one.” Invariably, the breed experts say, “Balance.” And I get annoyed, for how can the same word describe what is correct in such disparate breeds as Dachshunds, Irish Wolfhounds, and Golden Retrievers? But these breed experts are correct; it is just that balance is defined differently for each breed and is a part of the definition of the breed.

So, what is a balanced dog? Of the many dictionary definitions, the one probably the closest for this purpose is “being in harmonious or proper proportion.” Note that balance is “proper proportion,” not just matching. Compensating faults is not balance, not proper proportion, and not harmonious. These proportions will vary for each breed. For Great Danes, we can turn to the standard for most of the correct proportions.

Most people, when they say a dog is balanced, are referring to matching front and rear end angulation. Front angulation is the angle formed at the meeting of the shoulder blade and upper arm, “forming, as near as possible, a right angle.* Rear angulation usually refers to the angle formed by the upper and lower thighs, the standard calling for the rear to be well angulated. Correct balance for a Dane is a well-angulated front and rear.

But balance doesn’t end with this. There is much more.

The first sentence in the standard names one of the most important balances: “The Great Dane combines, in its regal appearance, dignity, strength and elegance with great size and a powerful, well-formed, smoothly muscled body.” The combination of strength/power, elegance, and great size uniquely define a Dane. The strength and power come from substance, bone, musculature, width, and depth. Elegance comes from length (head, neck, legs) and smooth curves. Size is, well, great; we have minimums which apply even to six month old puppies; we don’t have maximums. “Coarseness or lack of substance are equally undesirable.”

Balance for a male also includes being more massive, having a larger frame and heavier bone. He should be a stallion. If we have to check the plumbing, it isn’t a good male.

The standard calls for a square dog, although a dog that measures square will look off square, since the height is measured at the withers, but the eye goes to the backline. A long, low Dane is unbalanced; so is one that is taller than long. A heavy-bodied short-legged dog is out of balance. A leggy super-short-backed dog with no depth of body is out of balance. Bitches are allowed to be “somewhat longer.” But a bitch should still have “strength and elegance with great size.”

Head balance is also described in proportions. It is long, and it is a rectangle. A rectangle, by definition, has the same depth at both ends. The length of the skull (to the rear of the occiput) equals the length of the muzzle. This shape and proportion makes the head balanced and correct. The neck is also long. While it is not in the standard, I (and others) have noticed that on a good dog, the length of head and length of neck are about equal, and the depth of head and the average width of neck (both seen in profile) are about equal. A short head or short neck is incorrect balance for a Dane. A big head on a narrow neck or a refined head on a heavy neck is also out of balance.

A developed forechest, a broad, deep chest, a brisket reaching the elbow, well-sprung ribs, broad loin, well tucked up underline, and very slightly sloping croup describe body balance. A narrow front or rear, steep croup, or lack of tuck-up unbalance the Dane.

While we’ve identified front and rear angulation balance, there is also balance within the front and rear. For the front to be balanced, the shoulder blade and upper arm should be the same length, and the elbow should be directly under the high point of the shoulder. The front legs standing under the neck unbalances the outline. Likewise, the length of upper thigh and lower thigh should be equal length. The standard calls for well let down hocks, which means the hock joint is relatively close to the ground. The Dane standard doesn’t specify, but the Samoyed standard calls for the hock joint to be about 30% of the height of the dog at the hip, and to my eye, this works pretty good for a Dane, too.

In addition to length of bones, the width of the quarters affects balance. They are called front and rear quarters since each should be one quarter (one-fourth) of the length of the dog in profile. From the forechest to the perpendicular line formed from the top of the shoulder to the elbow should be one-fourth the length of the dog. The rear, starting at the beginning of the croup, should also be one-fourth the length of the dog. A narrow front (viewed from the side) is the result of straight angulation. The correct rear should also be wide, both in profile and from the rear.

Most balance describes the harmonious proportion of the standing Great Dane. But there is balance in the moving Dane, too. In profile, there should be long, easy strides with the backline level. The long reach should balance with the equal drive from the rear. Unbalanced gait reflects unbalanced and incorrect construction of the dog.

The opening paragraph requires that a Great Dane “must be so well balanced that it never appears clumsy.” It further states that a Dane “is always a unit.” The well-balanced Dane has unity; it is a one-piece dog. His correct features are in correct proportion within themselves and to each other. His parts connect seamlessly, flowing smoothly one to the other. He keeps that unity and balance on the move, as well.

When people are first learning dogs, they can identify faults: soft topline, steep croup, gay tail, and east-west front. As they progress, hopefully they learn to see virtues and eventually recognize excellent features: a beautiful head, a strong back, great compact feet, powerfully muscled thighs. Further education must progress to rewarding balance, for good parts don’t exist and are less valuable in isolation. How good is a beautiful head on a poorly structured body? Who wants an ugly dog even if it moves well? Harmonious and correct proportion between high quality components gives us balance which a dog must have and which should be the goal of our best breeders, exhibitors, and judges. With balance, we can proceed to seeing, evaluating, recognizing, and rewarding the whole dog.

If you don’t already do so, sit ringside and evaluate the dogs not just on their faults (easiest) or their virtues (harder), but also on their balance: how harmoniously the parts fit together, how correctly proportioned the dog is, in part and in whole. Watch the dog move in profile, and see if he maintains the balance and unity. When looking for balance, you are more likely to see the whole dog.


* (Note: the right angle front was derived from early writing of Rachel Paige Elliot. Quentin LaHam (and perhaps others) persuaded Ms. Elliot that the right angle wasn’t possible, and she corrected her later book. But many standards still include the request for a right angle.)

OTHER DANELINKS ARTICLES BY NIKKI RIGGSBEE
A Modest Proposal: Suggested Changes to the Great Dane Standard
Why Aren't Great Danes Better?
 

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